WORDS CRISTIN PROCTOR ROONEY - PHOTOGRAPHY SIENNA TAN
The students of Edith Neville Primary School could hardly have imagined their gymnasium transformed into one of the most in-demand venues of London Fashion Week. But as crowds packed into the small hall at 9pm on Friday night, it was clear that Giuseppe Iaciofano’s latest collection for Poet Lab had set the scene for one of the most electric showcases of the season.
While many earlier slots in the day belonged to heritage craftsmanship, Poet Lab’s Gentle(wo)man collection embraced the raw, unfiltered energy of London’s more avant-garde fashion identity. Poet Lab is a London based brand that thrives on a relaxed yet thought-provoking approach to fashion. Minimal in its staging but maximal in its impact, the show opened with flashing lights and an ambient, synth-heavy soundtrack, setting a tone of tension and suspense as the first model strode down the runway, chest bare beneath an open jacket.
DECONSTRUCTING GENDER, RECONSTRUCTING TAILORING
At its core, Gentle(wo)man reimagines the archetypal masculine wardrobe through a poetic, almost anarchic lens. Inspired by the ready-made art movement of Dadaism, the collection takes familiar structures of classic tailoring, office wear, utilitarian silhouettes, and subverts them, creating pieces that are both stripped back and extravagant. Gentle(wo)man transforms traditional workwear into oversized, geometrically inspired pieces, redefining tailoring with an unconventional twist.
Models, who appear to have been cast for their androgynous, sharp features, reinforced the collection’s fluid approach to gender. Deconstruction was a prevailing theme, as garments toyed with exposure and concealment. One model slid part of a dress off their shoulder, using the fabric to cover an exposed hip and thigh. More feminine elements emerged through designs like a soft silk maxi dress printed with a Spencer Watts design, a crisp white shirt dress, and a lace tie, all delicate accents that contrasted with the collection’s bolder, more structured pieces. Oversized jewellery by Treasures by Tiara added an element of opulence, blending the collection’s rawness with a touch of extravagance.
Iaciofano describes the Poet Lab woman as someone who “goes outside the fashionista’s schemes, who does not have a season and adapts to climate change.” The brand embraces a No-Season philosophy, producing limited garments in a commitment to eco-sustainability.
THE ART OF CONTRAST: STRUCTURE MEETS FLUIDITY
The interplay of contrasts ran through every aspect of the collection. Sharp, geometric tailoring was juxtaposed against the organic drape of silk; harsh, sculptural materials such as plastic spikes and circular embellishments, were softened through feminine silhouettes. Trousers were tailored to a precise point at the ankle, while exaggerated, pointed shoes created a surreal, almost cartoonish silhouette.
The show’s climax saw RuPaul’s Drag Race UK star Tayce close out the finale in a sheer mesh dress framed with spiky cable ties. The industrial rawness of the look was softened by the glimpse of a red-bottom heel, reinforcing Gentle(wo)man’s dialogue between rigid masculinity and delicate femininity. As the music built to a haunting crescendo, flashing lights morphed into a full strobe before transitioning to a softer, ethereal tone for the final walkthrough.
A MANIFESTO IN MOTION
Iaciofano has always described Poet Lab as a “workshop of a poet,” a space where concept, poetry, structure, and image collide. With Gentle(wo)man, that vision materialised in a collection that felt both deeply personal and unapologetically disruptive. In an industry often dictated by seasons and trends, Poet Lab rejects conventional fashion cycles, opting instead for a made-to-order, sustainably conscious approach that prioritises artistry over mass production.
As Iaciofano took his bow, the crowd’s reaction was a fitting response to a show that didn’t just present fashion but challenged the very framework upon which it exists. Gentle(wo)man wasn’t just a collection; it was a statement. Iaciofano has said that Poet Lab is inclusive and ethical, and that everyone can wear Poet Lab without judgment. That ethos shone through in a show that blurred boundaries, redefined expectations, and cemented its place in London’s ever-evolving fashion landscape.
