WORDS MAISIE JANE DANIELS
This February, Applebee’s—the Borough Market institution that has championed British seafood for a quarter of a century—has embarked on a bold new chapter. With a fresh concept, a reimagined menu, and a stunningly designed space, the relaunch marks not just an anniversary but a reinvention. The only things that remain unchanged? A steadfast commitment to sustainably sourced seafood and the family-run ethos that has anchored Applebee’s since its origins as a humble fishmonger.
Founded by Joy and Graham Applebee, the restaurant has been a cornerstone of Borough Market’s culinary scene since they transitioned from selling fish to serving it. Now, their son Jack Applebee, alongside his brothers, is leading the charge into the future—ensuring that the legacy of expertly sourced, responsibly served seafood continues.
And let’s talk about that menu. Sourced directly from fishermen at Brixham Fish Market, the selection celebrates the best of British waters with a weekly-changing lineup of the freshest catches. I visited with my pregnant sister, and a big shoutout to our waiter, Steven, who took the time to check each dish was expectant-friendly—a small but telling detail that speaks to Applebee’s attentive service.
To start, I sipped on a Rhubarb Sour—light, tart, and a perfect match for the trio of crab croquettes that oozed with rich, indulgent filling. If you go, order these. You won’t regret it. My scallop starter, served in the shell with sobrasada, coral roe, lemon, and herbs, was a highlight—generously sized and beautifully balanced. For mains, I tackled a bowl of mussels so plentiful they seemed to multiply as I ate, each one packed with flavour. Meanwhile, my sister opted for the signature fish and chips—golden, crispy, and paired with a standout tartare sauce. The fish variety rotates based on the catch of the day, from cod and haddock to plaice or turbot, ensuring the freshest possible bite every time. We rounded things off with the sticky toffee pavlova—an indulgence worth saving room for (or sharing, if you’re feeling generous).
Beyond the food, Applebee’s stands out for its dedication to sustainability—not just in sourcing but in education. Their commitment to responsible fishing practices, local suppliers, and techniques like in-house dry-ageing reinforces their mission: to serve incredible seafood while respecting the environment it comes from.
A thoughtfully curated menu, an intimate atmosphere, and staff who genuinely care—Applebee’s isn’t just back; it’s better than ever. For seafood lovers, this is a must-visit.
